Miyajima

A trip to Miyajima (sacred island) is a must for anyone visiting this country. You're probably all familiar with the huge red torii gate that appears to float in the sea. It actually balances on the sand itself. When I arrived the tide was out and score of folk were milling about on the beach by the torii. But did you know that because Miyajima is sacred, no one is allowed to be born or, bizarrely, die on this island? There is, however, a school as people do live and grow older here.

After that it was time for a stroll and the hope of vegetarian food. Not much hoping for that, but I did find a fruit shop, plus a wonderful cafe. The gentleman who runs the cafe told me that he'd been there for sixty years. I can't think of a better life than to stay here and run a gallery. But maybe that's another life itself. Interestingly, the cafe staff told me how much they liked my tattoos, and not one of them is a spring chicken. (I can't help but think that it's the older generation here who are the cooler.)

And here they are!

Don't miss the cable car up Mount Misa from where you will see the best views you'll probably see for the next year or so, supposing you like seascapes. The viewing spot will afford you a vista of the Inland Sea which is sprinkled with tiny islands. And of course, you might meet the odd monkey - don't stare them out!

Although there's a cable car to take you back down the mountain I decided to walk down - but that was after a hearty race to the summit itself. And I've been paying for it ever since, physically at least. I'd recommend walking down - don't freak that you'll miss the cable car and spend three hours wandering around aimlessly. It took me forty minutes to reach the torii, and it was forty minutes spent in the most beautiful wood with the backdrop of rushing streams and the odd frog chorus. But do set off while it's still light.

Photos never do things justice and the ones I've seen of the torii are no exception. You really do have to see this thing at sunset to appreciate it fully. The tide was in and ledges were lined with people snapping away, or simply letting contentment seep into every pore. My one regret is that I didn't book a room to stay overnight at a hotel here on Miyajima as the copious French tourists I met here today did.

There are a handful of times in my recent past where I've simply sat and felt, well, bliss if that doesn't sound too daft and hippy. Watching the sunset on Paxos was one, watching it in Koyasan was two. Come in number three.

Masks in the nice cafe.

I'm the Queen of the Castle!

We all had the same idea.